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About Inspections (9)

Monday, 13 December 2010 20:28

Inspector Selection: A Real Estate Agent's Duty

Written by Admin

The seller has accepted your clients' offer and now, with your help, your clients must choose a home inspector. Should you steer them toward the inspector who writes the softest reports? Should you steer them toward the inspector who pays to be on your office's preferred vendor list? Should you help them find the cheapest inspector? The answers to these questions are of course No, No, and Hell, no.

You have a fiduciary duty to your client and, therefore, must recommend the very best inspectors. If you recommend a patty-cake inspector, an inspector who indirectly pays for your recommendation, or a cheap inspector, you violate your fiduciary duty to your client.

The National Association of REALTORs defines your duties in their Code of Ethics. Article 1 requires you to protect and promote your clients' interests. Article 6 requires you to disclose any financial benefit you may receive from recommending related real estate services (this also includes any benefit to your broker).

Because most real estate agents get paid only if the real estate transaction successfully takes place, your personal interests and your fiduciary duties already conflict. Don't make your situation any worse. The best way to avoid negligent referral claims, to operate ethically, and to fulfill your fiduciary duty is to help your client find an inspector based solely on merit. And although no real estate agent can guarantee the thoroughness of any particular inspector, there is a strong correlation between an inspector's fees and his/her competence (in other words, you get what you pay for). Helping your client find a cheap inspector for the purchase of their lifetime is a violation of your fiduciary duty. When in doubt, shop price, and seek out the most expensive inspectors for your clients.

by Joe Ferry, Esquire and Nick Gromicko, InterNACHI Founder

In a world where litigation is the preferred method of resolving even the most minor conflicts, it should come as no surprise to real estate agents that they are increasingly finding themselves named as defendants in lawsuits wherein purchasers of residential real estate are claiming damages as the result of the alleged fraud and/or negligence of one or more of the participants in the transaction.
Aggrieved purchasers of residential real estate are operating in a target-rich environment and have a remarkable array of potentially responsible parties from which to seek financial redress for their claimed grievances.  In lawsuit after lawsuit, one finds multiple defendants: the sellers, the sellers’ agent, the sellers’ agent’s broker, the buyers’ agent, the buyers’ agent’s broker, the home inspector, the pest inspector, and so on.  The alleged grievances can include multiple counts, as well: fraud, negligence, breach of contract, etc.
Once a lawsuit has been filed and you have been named as a defendant, you can kiss your E&O deductible goodbye, even if you are blameless, which, in the overwhelming majority of instances, you are, because the overwhelming majority of these types of lawsuits is completely devoid of merit.  The size of these complaints and the sheer number of their allegations guarantee it.  No competent lawyer could possibly read and respond to the vastly overblown pleadings that normally characterize these types of lawsuits for anything close to the typical real estate agent’s E&O deductible.
Therefore, the best strategy is to avoid being named in the suit in the first place.  Fortunately, there are a number of effective policies that, if followed, can sharply reduce and even eliminate your exposure to being named in a meritless lawsuit.
Lawsuits resulting from a residential real estate transaction almost always result from a feeling on the buyers’ part that they got less than they bargained for.  After they moved into the property, they discovered that it was not all that it was cracked up to be.  Sometimes, the alleged defects were present at the time of the home inspection but, for one reason or another, were not discovered by the home inspection.  The fact that the alleged defects were not discovered by the home inspector does not automatically mean that the home inspector was negligent or that you were negligent for recommending the inspector -- far from it.
There could be a large number of reasons why the alleged defect was not discovered at the inspection that fall well short of actionable negligence.  The defect could be something that is not discovered because its inspection is simply not contemplated by the home inspection, such as a determination of the adequacy of any structural system or component, for example.  Such a determination is outside the scope of a home inspection.  Or it could be something that is not reported because it was concealed by furniture on the day of the inspection, or was located in an area that was inaccessible.  Not infrequently, known defects are deliberately concealed by the sellers.  And far more frequently than anyone would imagine, the alleged defect that is the subject of the buyers’ complaint was actually discovered by the home inspector and noted in the inspection report, but not acted upon by the buyers because they did not bother to read the inspection report.
Therefore, when selecting a home inspector for your client, you should bear uppermost in your mind that the home inspector is your first line of defense against a meritless negligence claim.
Top Eight Ways You Can Sharply Reduce Your Professional Liability Exposure:
  1. Insist that your client hire a professional home inspector to inspect the property, and strongly recommend that the inspection also include ancillary inspections for the presence of wood-destroying insects, and such harmful pathogens as mold and radon.
  2. Take the time to manage your clients’ expectations of what can reasonably be discovered by a limited visual inspection of a property that is full of furniture, carpets and stored items that further physically limit the scope of an already limited inspection.
  3. Be sure to carry your own Professional Liability Insurance to protect yourself from allegations that you should have independently verified that the property was defect-free.
  4. Review the inspector’s Pre-Inspection Agreement to make sure that it contains a Notice Clause that requires the buyers to notify the inspector within no more than 14 days of the discovery of any defect for which they believe he is responsible.
  5. Avoid conflicts of interest.  Never recommend an inspector who participates in preferred vendor schemes.  All major inspector associations prohibit participation in such undue praise-purchasing schemes.  You have a fiduciary duty to recommend the very best inspectors based solely on merit, not money.  And it goes without saying that you should never recommend any inspector with whom you have a close personal or blood relationship.
  6. Recommend the high-value inspector, not the low-price inspector.  Good inspectors charge accordingly.  Trying to save your client $100 on an inspection could cost them $10,000.
  7. Only recommend inspectors who adhere to a strict Code of Ethics and Standards of Practice, such as members of InterNACHI.
  8. Always attend the home inspection.  Many real estate agents have been advised never to attend a home inspection, allegedly by real estate attorneys.  Agents who say that they have received such advice are never able to articulate its rationale.  You are not any less likely to be named in a suit by hiding during the inspection, and the reasons for attending the inspection are quite compelling.  First, your presence is a clear indication of your professionalism and concern for your client’s interests, two factors well-known to engender referrals.  Secondly, it affords a very cogent opportunity to refocus your client’s attention to the limited nature of the inspection.  For example, you could note the numerous obstacles, such as furniture, carpets and appliances, that can obviously inhibit the inspector’s ability to see certain areas of the home.  Finally, should this transaction come to grief, your interests are usually perfectly aligned with the inspector’s, and your recollection of such limiting factors would provide powerful corroboration of the exonerating reasons that a defect was not discovered during the inspection.
Monday, 13 December 2010 20:19

Life expectancy of household materials and components

Written by Admin
The following chart details the predicted life expectancy of household materials and components.
Interior and exterior paints can last for 15 years or longer, however homeowners often paint more frequently. Surface preparation is likely the most important determiner of paint life expectancy.
ADHESIVES, CAULK AND PAINTS
YEAR
Caulking
5-10
Paint
7
Roofing Adhesives
15+
Appliance life expectancy depends to a great extent on the use it receives. Furthermore, consumers often replace appliances long before they become worn out due to changes in styling, technology and consumer preferences. Of a home’s major appliances, gas ranges have the longest life expectancy.
APPLIANCES
YEARS
--> Air-Conditioners 
8-15
Boilers
20-35
Compactors
6
Dehumidifiers
8
Dishwashers
9
Disposers, Food waste
12
Dryers
13
Exhaust Fans
10
Freezers
10-20
Furnaces
15-25
Gas Ovens
10-18
Heat Pumps
16
Humidifiers
8
Microwave Ovens
9
Range/Oven Hoods
14
Electric Ranges
13-15
Gas Ranges
15-17
Refrigerators
9-13
Washing Machine
5 -15
Water Heaters
10-11
BATHROOM
YEARS
Cast Iron Bathtub
50
Fiberglass  Bathtub and Shower
10-15
Shower Door
25
Toilet
50
Kitchens are in the process of becoming larger and more elaborate, and together with the family room, modern kitchens now form the “great room.”
Great rooms are a place to cook as well as a space where people gather to read, talk, eat, do homework, surf the Internet, and pay bills.
CABINETRY & STORAGE
YEARS
Bath Cabinets
100+
Closet Shelves 100+
Entertainment Centers/Home Office 10
Garage/Laundry Cabinets 100+
Kitchen Cabinets 50
Medicine Cabinets 20+
Modular/Stock Manufacturing Type
50
Walls and ceilings last the full lifespan of the home.
CEILINGS, WALLS & FINISHES
YEARS
Acoustical Ceiling
100+
Ceiling Suspension
100+
Ceramic Tile
100+
Standard Gypsum
100+
Natural stone countertops, which are less expensive than they were just a few years ago, are becoming more popular and one can expect them to last a lifetime. Cultured marble countertops have a shorter life expectancy, however.
COUNTERTOPS
YEARS
Cultured Marble
20
Natural Stone
100+
Laminate Countertops
20 - 30
Tile
100+
Wood
100+
Decks are exposed to a wide range of conditions in different climates, from wind and hail in some areas to relatively consistent, dry weather, in others. Under ideal conditions, they have a life expectancy of about 20 years but they can fail much sooner.
DECKS
YEARS
Deck Planks
25
Wood
10-30
Exterior fiberglass, steel and wood doors will last as long as the house, while vinyl and screen doors have a shorter life expectancy. Closet doors may last a lifetime, but French doors will fail sooner.
DOORS
YEARS
Closet (Interior)
100+
Fiberglass (Exterior)
100+
Fire-Rated Steel (Exterior)
100+
French (Interior)
30-50
Screen (Exterior)
40
Vinyl (Exterior) 20
Wood (Exterior)
100+
Wood (Hollow Core Interior)
20 - 30
Wood (Solid Core Interior)
30 - 100+
Floor and roof trusses and laminated strand lumber are durable household components, and engineered trim may last 30 years.
ENGINEERED LUMBER
YEARS
Engineered Trim
30
Laminated Strand Lumber
100+
Laminated Veneer Lumber
80+
Trusses
100+
FIXTURES & FAUCETS
YEARS
Accessible/ADA Products
100+
Enamel Steel Kitchen Sinks
5-10
Faucets
15-20
Modified Acrylic Kitchen Sinks
50
Saunas/Steam Rooms
15-20
Shower Enclosures/Modules
50
Shower heads
100+
Soapstone Kitchen Sinks
100+
Toilets/Bidets
100+
Whirlpool Tubs
20-50
Natural wood floorings may las as long as the house. Marble, slate, and granite are also expected to last for about 100 years, but require more maintenance. Vinyl floors last up to 50 years, linoleum about 25 years, and carpet between 8 and 10 years (with appropriate maintenance and normal traffic).
FLOORING
YEARS
All Wooden Floors
100+
Bamboo
100+
Brick Pavers
100+
Carpet
8-10
Concrete
50+
Engineered Wood
50+
Exotic Wood
100+
Granite
100+
Laminate
15-25
Linoleum
25
Marble
100+
Other Domestic Wood
100+
Slate
100
Terrazo
75+
Tile
75-100
Vinyl
25
Concrete and poured block footings and foundations will last a lifetime, assuming they were properly built. Termite proofing of foundations will last about 12 years if the chemical barriers put in place during construction are left intact. Waterproofing with bituminous coating lasts 10 years, but if it cracks it is immediately damaged.
FOOTING & FOUNDATIONS
YEARS
Baseboard System
50
Bituminous Coating Waterproofing
10
Cast Iron Waste Pipe (Above Ground)
60+
Cast Iron Waste Pipe (Below ground)
50 - 60
Concrete Block
100+
Concrete Waste Pipe
100
Poured Footings and Foundations
100+
Pumps, Sumps, and Wells
5-12
Termite Proofing
12
Framing and structural systems have extended longevities; poured-concrete systems, timber frame houses and structural insulated panels will all last a lifetime. Wall panels and roof and floor trusses will also last a lifetime. Hardboard, softwood, and plywood last an average of 30 years, while OSB and particleboard are expected to last twice that long.
FRAMING & OTHER STRUCTURAL SYSTEMS
YEARS
Poured-Concrete Systems
100+
Structural Insulated Panels
100+
Timber Frame Homes
100+
Garage door openers are expected to last 10 to 15 years, and light inserts will last slightly longer.
GARAGES
YEARS
Garage Doors
20-25
Garage Door Openers
10-15
Light Inserts
20
Home technology systems have diverse life expectancies. While a built-in audio system will last 20 years, security systems and heat/smoke detectors have life expectancies of 5 to 10 years. Wireless home networks and home automation systems are expected to work properly for more than 50 years.
HOME TECHNOLOGY
YEARS
Built-in Audio
20
Home Automation Systems
100+
Security Systems
5-10
Smoke/Heat Detectors
Less Than 10
Wireless Home Networks
50+
Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems require regular maintenance in order to work properly, but even well-maintained systems only last 15 to 25 years. Furnaces, on average, last 15-20 years, heat pumps last 16 years, and air conditioning units last 10-15 years. Tankless water heaters last more than 20 years, while an electric or gas water heater has a life expectancy of about 10 years. Thermostats may last 35 years but they are usually replaced before they fail due to technological improvements.
HVAC
YEARS
Air Conditioners
10-15
Air Quality Systems
15
Attic Fans
15 - 25
Boilers
13-21
Burners
10+
Central Air Conditioning Unite
12-15
Dampers
20+
Dehumidifiers
8
Diffusers, Grilles, and Registers
25
Ducting
10
DX, Water, Or Steam
20
Electric
15
Electric Radiant Heater
40
Furnaces
15-20
Heat Exchangers, shell + tube
10-15
Heat Pumps
16
Heat Recovery Ventilators
20
Hot Water or Steam Radiant Heater
40
Induction and Fan-Coil Units
10-15
Molded Insulation
100+
Shell and Tube
20
Thermostats
35
Ventilators 7
Water Heaters
20+
As long as they are not punctured, cut, or burned and are kept dry and away from UV rays, cellulose, fiberglass, and foam insulation materials will last a lifetime. This is true regardless of whether they were installed as loose fill, house wrap, or batts/rolls.
INSULATION & INFILTRATION BARRIERS
YEARS
Batts/Rolls
100+
Cellulose
100+
Fiberglass
100+
Foam
100+
House Wrap
100+
Loose Fill
100+
Ladders are expected to last a lifetime, but life expectancy of lifts is significantly shorter.
JOB SITE EQUIPMENT
YEARS
Ladders
100+
Lifts
8-10
Copper plated wiring, copper clad aluminum, and bare copper wiring are expected to last a lifetime, whereas electrical accessories and lighting controls may need to be replaced after 10 years.
LIGHTING & ELECTRICAL
YEARS
Accessories
10+
Bare Copper
100+
Copper Clad Aluminum
100+
Copper Plated
100+
Lighting Controls
10+
Masonry is one of the most enduring household components. Fireplaces, chimneys, and brick veneers can last the lifetime of a home.
MASONRY & CONCRETE
YEARS
Brick
100+
Sealer Caulking
2-20
Stone
100+
Veneer
100+
Custom millwork will last a lifetime, and all stairs – circular and spiral stairs, prebuilt stairs and attic stairs – are expected to last a lifetime.
MOLDING & MILLWORK
YEARS
Attic Stairs
100+
Custom Millwork
100+
Prebuilt Stairs
100+
Stair Parts
100+
Stairs, Circular & Spiral
100+
Lifetime of any wood product depend on level of moisture intrusion
PANELS
YEARS
Flooring Underlayment
25
Hardboard
30
Particleboard
60
Plywood
60
Softwood
30
Oriented-Strand Board
60
Wall Panels
100+
The life of a roof depends on local weather conditions, building and design, material quality, and adequate maintenance. Slate, copper, and clay/concrete roofs have the longest life expectancy while roofs made of asphalt shingles, fiber cement or wood shakes will fail sooner.
ROOFING
YEARS
Aluminum Coating
3-7
Asphalt Shingles (3 - tab)
20
Asphalt (Architectural)
30
BUR (Built-up Roof)
30
Clay/Concrete
100+
Coal and Tar
30
Copper
100+
EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) Rubber
15 - 25
Fiber Cement
25
Metal
40 - 50
Modified Bitumen
20
Simulated Slate
50
Slate
50+
TPO
7 - 20
Wood
30
Outside materials typically last a lifetime. Brick, vinyl, engineered wood, stone (both natural and manufactured), and fiber cement will last as long the house. Exterior wood shutters are expected to last 20 years, depending on weather conditions. Gutters have a life expectancy of more than 50 years if made of copper and for 20 years if made of aluminum. Copper downspouts last 100 years or more, while aluminum ones will last 30 years.
SIDING & ACCESSORIES
YEARS
Aluminum Downspouts
30
Aluminum Gutters
20
Aluminum/Interior Shutters
10+
Brick
100+
Copper Downspouts
100
Copper Gutters
50+
Engineered Wood
100+
Fiber Cement
100+
Galvanized Steel Gutters/Downspouts
20
Manufactured Stone
100+
Soffits/Fascias
50
Stone
100+
Stucco
50 - 100
Trim
25
Vinyl 100+
Wood/Exterior Shutters 20
Wood/Interior Shutters 15+
Most landscaping elements have a life expectancy of 15 to 25 years. Sprinklers and valves last about 20 years, while underground PVC piping has a lifespan of 25 years. Polyvinyl fences are designed to last as long as the house, and asphalt driveways should last between 15 and 20 years. Tennis courts can last a lifetime if they are recoated; most coatings last 12 to 15 years. The concrete shell of a swimming pool is expected to last more than 25 years, but the interior plaster and tile have life expectancies of about 10 to 25 years.
SITE & LANDSCAPING
YEARS
American Red Clay
100+
Asphalt Driveway
15-20
Asphalt with Acrylic Coating or Cushion
12-15
Brick & Concrete Patios
15-25
Clay Paving
100+
Cleaning Equipment(Swimming Pool)
7-10
Coating
5-7
Concrete Shell (Swimming Pool)
25+
Concrete Walks
40- 50
Controllers
15
Decking(Swimming Pool)
15
Fast-Dry Green Tennis Court 100+
Fast-Dry with Subsurface
100+
Gravel Walks
4-6
Interior Finish( Swimming Pool)
10-35
Polyvinyl Fences 100+
Sprinklers 10-14
Underground PVC Piping 60+
Valves
20
Waterline Tile ( Swimming Pool)
10
Aluminum windows are expected to last between 15 and 20 years while wooden windows should last nearly 30 years.
SKYLIGHTS & WINDOWS
YEARS
Aluminum/Aluminum Clad
15-20
Window Glazing 10+
Vinyl Windows
20 - 40
Wood
30+
Note: Life expectancy varies with usage, weather, installation, maintenance and quality of materials. Items listed as lasting 100+ years, especially those that open and close, often fail prematurely due to misuse or overuse. This list should be used only as a general guideline, not as a guarantee or warranty regarding the performance or life expectancy of any product.
Monday, 13 December 2010 19:45

Inspecting for defects in older buildings

Written by Admin
by Nick Gromicko and Rob London
While you can’t predict the lurking dangers in an unfamiliar home, its age offers clues about what you can expect to encounter. Older homes, especially those that have remained in the same hands for much (or all) of their lifetime, are often plagued by a common set of defects that InterNACHI inspectors and potential home buyers may want to learn about.
Some of the more prevalent issues of older homes are as follows.
  • Lead is a toxic metal that was once commonly used in the manufacture of household paint and plumbing fixtures, and as an additive to gasoline. While it has long been prohibited in new construction, lead-based paint and plumbing that weren't removed may present a significant health hazard. Homes constructed prior to 1978 may contain lead paint, whichBlue asbestos insulation can be ingested by small children or contaminate surrounding soil and vegetable gardens. It is easily identifiable by its alligator-like flaking pattern. Lead pipes, too, were used in homes up until the late 1940s, and they may allow lead to leach into drinking water. They can be identified by their dull gray color and the ease by which they can be scratched by keys or coins.
  • Asbestos insulation, which can increase the chances of developing lung cancer and mesothelioma, was used in homes between 1930 and 1950. Asbestos insulation should be left undisturbed until it can be removed by a qualified professional, as its fibers can be inhaled when they are airborne, creating a significant health hazard.
  • Older homes were not constructed to meet modern energy efficiency requirements. They may suffer thermal losses from single-pane windows, insufficient or compressed insulation, leaking ductwork, and inefficient heaters and other appliances. It should be noted, however, that older homes better capitalize on natural sources of lighting, heating and ventilation through the use of design features such as exterior shutters, shade trees, and thick, heat-retaining masonry walls.
  • Buried oil tanks were often abandoned and forgotten after homes switched to newer fuel sources. Today, these tanks pose a safety hazard to homeowners and their neighbors, as their contents may leak into surrounding soil. Disposal guidelines vary and may call for removal of the tank or filling it with sand or gravel. Soil testing may be required to investigate whether an abandoned fuel tank has leaked underground.
  • Obsolete electrical components pose a fire and safety hazard, such as:
    • aluminum wiring. From about 1965 to 1973, single-strand aluminum wiring was sometimes used in place of copper branch-circuit wiring inWells present a fall hazard residential electrical systems due to the escalating price of copper. After a decade of use by homeowners and electricians, weaknesses were discovered in the metal, which led to its disuse as a branch wiring material. Although properly maintained aluminum wiring is acceptable, aluminum will generally become defective faster than copper due to certain qualities inherent in the metal. It can be identified by its color or the labels “CO/ALR,” “aluminum” and “AL”;
    • knob-and-tube (K&T) wiring.  This was an early standardized method of electrical wiring in buildings from about 1880 to the 1940s. While codes do not require its removal, K&T wiring often suffers from unsafe modifications, old age, overheating, and lack of a ground wire. It can be identified by its characteristic porcelain insulating tubes;
    • a lack of ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs). Homes built before the 1970s may not have been equipped with GFCI protection, which guards against overloads, short circuits and ground faults; and
    • a lack of grounded receptacles, which provide a safe path to ground for stray electrical current. Most major appliances, such as stoves, refrigerators and computers, have three-prong plugs and require three-slot or grounded receptacles. Homes in the U.S. built before 1962 were not constructed with three-slot receptacles.
  • Wells, cesspools and septic tanks were commonly used before homes and buildings were connected to public sewer and water systems. If they were abandoned and not removed, these elements pose hazards related to their deterioration and collapse.
  • Radon is a naturally occurring gas that has been identified as the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States. It usually enters the home through cracks in the foundation, a common problem found in vintage construction. Radon cannot be seen, smelled or tasted, so concerned homeowners should consult with their InterNACHI inspector about radon testing during their next scheduled inspection.
In summary, older construction often suffers from predictable defects and obsolete components. Homeowners may want to enlist the help of their InterNACHI inspector to explore essential upgrades that will eliminate health and safety hazards in their homes.
Friday, 04 February 2011 18:07

Should the buyer accompany the inspector?

Written by Terry Jones

Many home buyers and real estate agents believe it is important for the client to accompany the inspector during the course of the inspection. We have a different approach to the process.

Inspectors have a critical task before them when they inspect a property. Inspectors know it is their duty and responsibility to provide a thorough and detailed review of the home. The client has entrusted them with protecting their interests. We are keenly aware of our responsibility to our clients.

We have a specific process we follow to ensure nothing is missed. During the process an inspector is not just noting individual issues; he is also trying to determine if any issues are interrelated and possibly indicators of a larger more significant issue. To provide this advanced level of inspection requires the inspector to focus and remain cognizant of many, many issues at one time. An interruption to the inspectors process during the course of the inspection could result in an unintended omission.

We recommend clients and agents meet the inspector at the commencement of the inspection to outline any specific concerns they want the inspector to know of prior to the inspection. Generally these would be issues observed during a showing of the home or issues contained in the TDS.

Then, if the client or agent feels it necessary, they can return at the conclusion of the inspection where the inspector can review the observations made during the course of the inspection. Allowing the inspector to be uninterrupted during the course of the inspection will inevitably result in a more thorough inspection and reduces the potential of an omission. At the conclusion of the inspection the inspector will be delighted to answer any questions and, if desired, provide an orientation of the home.

Monday, 13 December 2010 20:22

What to ask your Home Inspector during a Home Inspection

Written by Admin

A good home inspector provides you with a guide that allows you to make an informed decision regarding whether or not you should purchase the home. The home inspection report also gives you bargaining power if you need it.

Home inspectors expect questions to be asked during home inspections. If you ask a home inspector a question, hear the answer and nod your head up and down the home inspector is likely to feel your question was answered. If you do not understand the answer a home inspector gives you then tell the inspector. A good Home Inspector should have no problem at all explaining things more than once and in different ways until the buyers understand.

Ask the home inspector about any of your concerns. Every buyer is different and your inspector will have a hard time identifying what you are concerned about if you don’t communicate your concerns and ask questions. Do not bother asking the inspector if you should buy the home, if the home is right for you, if the price is right, who has to fix what and so on. Home inspectors can answer your questions about most issues however the above questions are outside of the field of expertise of most home inspectors.

Feel free to question the home inspector about the drainage around the exterior of the home, if there is a basement ask how to help keep your basement dryer, how to prolong the useful life of the roofing and if there are problems with the roofing and or siding. Home inspectors answer those questions all the time and can provide useful tips.

While outside ask the home inspector if there are any signs of improperly abandoned oil tanks, if there are the home inspector can advise you and your attorney how to proceed.

Home inspectors can tell you how many amps the electrical service is, the service voltage, if there is room to expand within the electric panel, if amateurs have caused problems with the wiring and if the wiring appears to be safe. If the home is older make sure you ask the inspector if aluminum wiring or knob and tube wiring exists, both are potential fire hazards and may make it difficult to get home owner's insurance.

When the home inspector is inspecting the plumbing system ask if the sewer clean out cap is newer. If it is suspect problems with the sewer pipe may exist and budget for replacement. Ask the inspector how old the plumbing supply, waste and vent pipes are. If the pipes are old replacement may be necessary sooner than you would like.

Heating systems must be inspected and you are entitled to be told how the heating system works. If you do not know the parts on the boiler or furnace now is the time to find out. Ask the home inspector questions about what part does what and why they are there. Every home inspector I know is anxious to teach you everything he or she knows. If the inspector does not know the names of the parts on the equipment you should be concerned.

Many buyers have questions to ask home inspectors about the structure of the home. Keep in mind home inspectors cannot see into or through walls. Home inspectors can see what they can see and make a few educated guesses. Home inspectors are likely to miss hidden damages from insects, rot, water and construction defects unless obvious symptoms exist. Home inspectors who provide an answer of "I do not know" when asked the question are there hidden damages are not being evasive they are being honest.

Friday, 11 February 2011 16:57 Written by Terry Jones

Beware of Cheap Inspectors!

To see what Nationally Syndicated Columnist Barry Stone has to say about cheap home inspections:  CLICK HERE

Cheap Inspections can end up costing you Thousands of Dollars!

BEWARE: Inspectors ARE NOT all alike! When pricing a Home Inspection please do yourself a favor and DON'T shop for the lowest price. DO SHOP for the best home inspector available.

Nothing Takes The Place Of Experience

I frequently hear horror stories about bad inspections. Unfortunately when I hear the story it is too late; The house has already been purchased and the new owners have unexpected problems that could have been prevented. As a buyer or real estate agent you have to decide what is best. There is no substitute for experience. A home purchase is too important to cut corners so please do yourself a huge favor and choose the best home inspector available.

Buying a home is probably the single most expensive investment you will ever make. A good detailed inspection report can save you thousands of dollars. Going with a cheaper inspector usually means less experience, less effort, and saving $50.00 to $75.00 or even hundreds on the inspection.  The savings from a cheap inspector may end up costing you a lot of money in the long run.

Our inspections are performed by Terry Jones, an experienced Certified Professional Inspector and Licensed Contractor. Legacy Inspection is a division of Legacy Contractors Inc., a California state licensed contractor.  We are insured with General Liability coverage and Professional Liability (E&O) coverage for inspections.


Monday, 29 November 2010 20:15

Types of Inspections

Written by Admin

Various Types of Home Inspections


•General Home Inspection
General home inspectors look for defects. If they spot something unusual that lies outside of their scope of professional experience, they will suggest that you obtain a more specialized inspection.

A general home inspection does not include specific items that require a specialist to examine. For example, a home inspector might measure the differential temperature reading from an air conditioning unit, find it low and suggest the A/C be inspected by an HVAC specialist. The inspector may have an idea of what is wrong, but is probably unqualified to take it apart and diagnose

Home Inspection Checklist of Items Not Inspected:

California home inspectors are not licensed, nor are they licensed in many states. However, a home inspector's standard practice typically does not include the following, for which a specific license or certification to inspect and identify is required:

•Asbestos
•Radon, Methane, Radiation and Formaldehyde
•Wood-Destroying Organisms
•Mold, Mildew and Fungi
•Rodents
•Lead


•Wood Destroying Pests
You can find wood destroying pests in just about any part of the country, but especially in warm climates. A pest inspection will disclose not only termites or powder post beetles, for example, but also dry-rot.


•Chimney
Some older chimneys don't have flue liners or the brick inside the chimney may be crumbling. A chimney inspector will also make sure smoke is discharged properly.


•Electrical
A general home inspector may tell you that the electrical box is so old that it no longer complies with city code, but an electrician can tell you the best brands to replace it with and how much it costs, among other disclosures.


•Heating and Air Conditioning
With most furnaces, you have to take it apart to determine if the heat exchanger is cracked, for example, or to find out why the furnace is malfunctioning. An HVAC specialist can tell you what's wrong, how much it will cost to fix it and whether it needs to be replaced.


•Lead-Based Paint
The federal government banned the use of lead-based paint in 1978, but homes newer than 1978 can still contain lead-based paint. You have the right to have the home tested for lead-based paint. To remove lead-based paint, hire a certified lead abatement contractor.


•Square Footage
You may want to verify the square footage of your home. Because public records are input by humans, mistakes can happen. You can calculate square footage yourself or hire an appraiser.


•Easements and Encroachments
Your owner's title policy will disclose easements, but some encroachments may require a physical inspection. Ask the title company to send you the actual easement documents from the public records.


•Foundation
While a home inspector can tell you if your home was built on a slab or raised foundation, a foundation engineer can tell you if the home is sliding or the foundation is faulty.


•Lot Size and Boundaries
A preliminary search for a title policy will give you a plat map, showing the boundaries and size of the lot. If you want this information verified, you may want to hire a surveyor.


•Pool and Spa
Pool and spa experts can give you an estimated life expectancy on crucial key components such as the heater or spa blower. They will also check for leaks.


•Roof Inspection
If the seller won't pay for a roof certification on an older roof, then get your own. Make sure the company is reputable and likely to be in business later if you have a claim.


•Sewer or Septic System Inspection
Many older homes may not be connected to a sewer system. Get a sewer inspection. Modern technology calls for a digital camera to be inserted into the sewer line and pushed through to the main line.


•Soil Stability
Testing the soil is important if you're buying a home on the side of a hill, because you don't want it sliding away during a rainstorm. Some areas also are prone soil contamination.


•Arborist
The best way to determine if the trees on the property are healthy is to hire an arborist to inspect them.


•Water Systems and Plumbing
If the plumbing is galvanized, a plumber can tell you if it needs to be replaced. Some galvanized pipes are so clogged that you can barely fit the lead of a pencil through it.


•Well
Inspect the construction of the well and find out the depth of the water table, including water sanitation.


•Radon or Methane Gas
A mitigation contractor can test for radon or methane gas and recommend ways to remove it.


•Asbestos
The only way to tell if a material actually contains asbestos is have it tested. Taking a sample to a lab is preferred over do-it-yourself home tests.


•Formaldehyde
Formaldehyde is a colorless and flammable gas used as a chemical in building products. It's known to cause cancer in rats.


•Mold
Mold can trigger health problems in even healthy individuals. There are many different types of mold. You can test for mold in the home by testing air quality.


•Permits and Zoning
Go to your city planning department and ask to see the permits on the home. Sometimes people remodel without permits. The zoning department can tell you, for example, if it's legal to run a home-based business from your home.

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