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About Our Home Inspection Business
Information is your best tool for managing risk!
We work directly for YOU! Our job is to insure that you understand every item that may be reported during the inspection. The majority of our business is from client referrals and from recommendations by real estate agents that appreciate how our attention to detail protects them and their clients.
Offering more is part of what makes Legacy Inspection a more Valuable Inspector
The Report
We provide a computer generated report using Home Inspector Pro, the very best inspection software available in the industry today. Not only is it comprehensive, but also it is extremely easy to read and pleasant to look at. The report features a summary section with critical items listed in red.
The Photo Documentation
There are two well-known sayings "A picture is worth a thousand words" and "Seeing is believing". The digital photos we provide will further document, and make clarification of the issues easier for everyone.
The Post Inspection Value
If your home inspection doesn't reveal any significant issues, do not feel that you have wasted your money, you received peace of mind.
The Report Delivery
The inspection report is emailed within 48 hours of the inspection (usually next day)!
The Types of Home Inspections We Offer
Buyers Inspection
Our full inspections for buyers meet or exceed the Standards of Practice of The International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) and The California Real Estate Inspection Association
Bank Owned/ REO / Foreclosure Inspection
With many home purchases being made on homes in foreclosure, and sold "as is" condition, it's important to use an inspector who knows what to focus on for these inspections. You must know all the major defects up front, because there will be no recourse once your purchase has been finalized. This inspection follows the same Standards of Practice as our full inspections for buyers
Home Sellers Inspection
One of the main reasons a home sale transaction can fall apart, is the discovery of defects as a result of a full inspection, or in the seller's case, lack of an inspection. A seller's report is not meant to replace buyer's inspections. It's to uncover defects in advance so that the buyer's inspections don't become deal-breakers. Eventually your buyers are going to conduct an inspection. You may as well know what they are going to find by getting there first.
Move In Certified Inspection
Move IN Certified inspections are very similar to a listing inspection, but it takes it up a notch. MoveInCertified homes have been pre-inspected by member inspectors and the sellers confirm that there are no major systems in need of immediate repair or replacement and no known safety hazards. The inspection reports are hosted on http://www.fetchreport.com/ Ask the listing agent or seller for access to view. Please read recent Los Angeles Times article about seller inspections. http://www.nachi.org/latimessellingtactic.htm
New Home Warranty Inspections
You bought yourself a new home, but now your 1 year builders warranty is about to expire. The warranty was your life raft, let us inspect your home before your warranty expires. Why risk having to pay for repairs that could have been discovered with a thorough inspection? Let the builder pay to fix any found deficiencies. You certainly don't want to pay to repair or replace any items when you sell your house.
New Construction | Phase Inspections
Don’t expect your local municipal Inspectors to do a thorough inspection on your new house. In this day of go and blow construction, you need your own personal inspector to look after your greatest investment - your home. The best choice is to have the inspector inspect the property in various phases as it is being constructed, if this is not possible then have your brand new home inspected, this way the builder has to repair the deficiencies. Many times there are more issues with a brand new house, than there is with older houses.
FHA/HUD Compliance Inspections
U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development ID Number N127
Safety Inspections
Commercial; Retail, Light Commercial, & Residential Properties
Ancillary Inspections (provided by affiliates or sub-contractors)
Radon Inspection
You can't see radon. And you can't smell it or taste it. But it may be a problem in your home. Radon is estimated to cause many thousands of deaths each year. That's because when you breathe air containing radon, you can get lung cancer. In fact, the Surgeon General has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States today. Only smoking causes more lung cancer deaths. If you smoke and your home has high radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is especially high.
Mold Inspection
The EPA states that, "It is important to take precautions to limit your exposure to mold and mold spores. Avoid breathing in mold or mold spores". The EPA also recommends that if you suspect you have a hidden mold problem you should consider hiring an experienced professional to avoid exposure to potentially massive doses of mold spores. Mold damages what it grows on. The longer it grows the more damage it can cause. If there is a mold problem in your home, you should clean up the mold promptly. Mold can be hidden, growing on the water from a hidden leak, and can develop into a potentially large problem if not caught in time.
Wood Infestation | Termite Inspection
As a protective measure, banks and lending institutions often require that homes be inspected for damage from termites or other wood-destroying insects before closing the sale of the home. A Wood-Destroying Insect Inspection Report (WDIIR) is a document prepared only by a licensed pest control business that informs the lending institution and buyer about termite damage or presence. Member inspectors may be licensed to conduct their own wood infestation inspection, or they may work with a licensed pest control company.
Water Testing
Lead is a naturally occurring element present in the earth's crust. It has received attention over the years as a contaminant in drinking water for good reason. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (USEPA) calls it, "a highly toxic metal the agency considers a major public health threat" (1). It can cause damage to both adults and children, although in children the effects tend to be greater (i.e. mental retardation, kidney damage, delayed development, etc.). Lead leaches into drinking water from lead containing plumbing fixtures, pipes, and solder.. If you are concerned about possible lead contamination in your drinking water, have an inspector test the water.
Energy Loss | Energy Star Inspections
If you are interested in getting specific recommendations for improving the efficiency of your home, consider contacting a professional Home Energy Auditor. A professional auditor can use a variety of techniques and equipment to determine the energy efficiency of your home. Thorough audits often use equipment such as blower doors, which measure the extent of leaks in the building envelope, and infrared cameras, which reveal hard-to-detect areas of air infiltration and missing insulation.
Roof Certification
Pool and Spa
Inspector Selection: A Real Estate Agent's Duty
The seller has accepted your clients' offer and now, with your help, your clients must choose a home inspector. Should you steer them toward the inspector who writes the softest reports? Should you steer them toward the inspector who pays to be on your office's preferred vendor list? Should you help them find the cheapest inspector? The answers to these questions are of course No, No, and Hell, no.
You have a fiduciary duty to your client and, therefore, must recommend the very best inspectors. If you recommend a patty-cake inspector, an inspector who indirectly pays for your recommendation, or a cheap inspector, you violate your fiduciary duty to your client.
The National Association of REALTORs defines your duties in their Code of Ethics. Article 1 requires you to protect and promote your clients' interests. Article 6 requires you to disclose any financial benefit you may receive from recommending related real estate services (this also includes any benefit to your broker).
Because most real estate agents get paid only if the real estate transaction successfully takes place, your personal interests and your fiduciary duties already conflict. Don't make your situation any worse. The best way to avoid negligent referral claims, to operate ethically, and to fulfill your fiduciary duty is to help your client find an inspector based solely on merit. And although no real estate agent can guarantee the thoroughness of any particular inspector, there is a strong correlation between an inspector's fees and his/her competence (in other words, you get what you pay for). Helping your client find a cheap inspector for the purchase of their lifetime is a violation of your fiduciary duty. When in doubt, shop price, and seek out the most expensive inspectors for your clients.
Ten Things You Should Know About Mold
reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints.
the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.
sources of moisture.
- venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating sources to the outside;
- using air conditioners and de-humidifiers;
- increasing ventilation;
- and using exhaust fans whenever cooking, dishwashing, and cleaning.
prevent mold growth.
materials such as ceiling tiles, that are moldy, may need to be replaced.
piping, exterior walls, roof, or floors) by adding insulation.
drinking fountains, by classroom sinks, or on concrete floors with leaks or frequent
condensation).
moisture is present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods.
Feel free to download this page of tips in a printer-friendly PDF format. Realtors can reproduce it and
make it part of your real estate information packet.
Childproofing Your Home
Childproofing Your Home: 12 Safety Devices to Protect Your Children
1. Use safety latches and locks for cabinets and drawers in kitchens, bathrooms, and other areas to help prevent poisonings and other injuries. Safety latches and locks on cabinets and drawers can help prevent children from gaining access to medicines and household cleaners, as well as knives and other sharp objects.
Look for safety latches and locks that adults can easily install and use, but that are sturdy enough to withstand pulls and tugs from children. Safety latches are not a guarantee of protection, but they can make it more difficult for children to reach dangerous substances. Even products with child-resistant packaging should be locked away out of reach; this packaging is not childproof.
Typical cost of a safety latch or lock: less than $2.
2. Use safety gates to help prevent falls down stairs and to keep children away from dangerous areas. Look for safety gates that children cannot dislodge easily, but that adults can open and close without difficulty. For the top of stairs, gates that screw into the wall are more secure than "pressure gates."
New safety gates that meet safety standards display a certification seal from the Juvenile Products Manufacturers Association (JPMA). If you have an older safety gate, be sure it doesn't have "V" shapes that are large enough for a child's head and neck to fit into.
Typical cost of a safety gate: $13 to $40.
3. Use door knob covers and door locks to help prevent children from entering rooms and other areas with possible dangers, including swimming pools.
Be sure the door knob cover is sturdy enough not to break, but allows a door to be opened quickly by an adult in case of emergency. By restricting access to potentially hazardous rooms in the home, door knob covers could help prevent many kinds of injuries. To prevent access to swimming pools, door locks should be placed high, out of reach of young children. Locks should be used in addition to fences and door alarms. Sliding glass doors, with locks that must be re-secured after each use, are often not an effective barrier to pools.
Typical cost of a door knob cover: $1; door lock: $5 and up.
4. Use anti-scald devices for faucets and shower heads, and set your water heater temperature to 120° F to help prevent burns from hot water. A plumber may need to install these.
Typical cost of an anti-scald device: $6 to $30.
5. Use smoke detectors on every level of your home and near bedrooms to alert you to fires. Smoke detectors are essential safety devices for protection against fire deaths and injuries. Check smoke detectors once a month to make sure they're working. If detectors are battery-operated, change batteries at least once a year, or consider using 10-year batteries.
Typical cost of a window guard or safety netting: $8 to $16.
7. Use corner and edge bumpers to help prevent injuries from falls against sharp edges of furniture and fireplaces. Corner and edge bumpers can be used with furniture and fireplace hearths to help prevent injuries from falls, and to soften falls against sharp and rough edges.
Be sure to look for bumpers that stay securely on furniture and hearth edges.
Typical cost of a corner and edge bumper: $1 and up.
8. Use outlet covers and outlet plates to help prevent children from electrical shock and possible electrocution.
Be sure the outlet protectors cannot be easily removed by children and are large enough so that children cannot choke on them.
Typical cost of an outlet cover: less than $2.
9. Use a carbon monoxide (CO) detector outside bedrooms to help prevent CO poisoning. Consumers should install CO detectors near sleeping areas in their homes. Households that should use CO detectors include those with gas or oil heat or with attached garages.
Typical cost of a carbon monoxide (CO) detector: $30 to $70.
10. Cut window blind cords; use safety tassels and inner cord stops instead to help prevent children from strangling in blind-cord loops. Window blind cord safety tassels on miniblinds and tension devices on vertical blinds and drapery cords can help prevent deaths and injuries from strangulation in the loops of cords. Inner cord stops can help prevent strangulation in the inner cords of window blinds.
For older miniblinds, cut the cord loop, remove the buckle, and put safety tassels on each cord. Be sure that older vertical blinds and drapery cords have tension or tie-down devices to hold the cords tight. When buying new miniblinds, vertical blinds and draperies, ask for safety features to prevent child strangulation.
Prices vary.
Typical cost of a door stop and door holder: less than $4.
12. Use a cell or cordless phone to make it easier to continuously watch young children, especially when they're in bathtubs, swimming pools, or other potentially dangerous areas. Cordless phones help you watch your child continuously without leaving the vicinity to answer a phone call. Cordless phones are especially helpful when children are in or near water, whether it's the bathtub, the swimming pool, or the beach.
How Agents Can Limit Their Liability with Regard to Home Inspections
by Joe Ferry, Esquire and Nick Gromicko, InterNACHI Founder
- Insist that your client hire a professional home inspector to inspect the property, and strongly recommend that the inspection also include ancillary inspections for the presence of wood-destroying insects, and such harmful pathogens as mold and radon.
- Take the time to manage your clients’ expectations of what can reasonably be discovered by a limited visual inspection of a property that is full of furniture, carpets and stored items that further physically limit the scope of an already limited inspection.
- Be sure to carry your own Professional Liability Insurance to protect yourself from allegations that you should have independently verified that the property was defect-free.
- Review the inspector’s Pre-Inspection Agreement to make sure that it contains a Notice Clause that requires the buyers to notify the inspector within no more than 14 days of the discovery of any defect for which they believe he is responsible.
- Avoid conflicts of interest.  Never recommend an inspector who participates in preferred vendor schemes.  All major inspector associations prohibit participation in such undue praise-purchasing schemes. You have a fiduciary duty to recommend the very best inspectors based solely on merit, not money.  And it goes without saying that you should never recommend any inspector with whom you have a close personal or blood relationship.
- Recommend the high-value inspector, not the low-price inspector. Good inspectors charge accordingly. Trying to save your client $100 on an inspection could cost them $10,000.
- Only recommend inspectors who adhere to a strict Code of Ethics and Standards of Practice, such as members of InterNACHI.
- Always attend the home inspection. Many real estate agents have been advised never to attend a home inspection, allegedly by real estate attorneys.  Agents who say that they have received such advice are never able to articulate its rationale. You are not any less likely to be named in a suit by hiding during the inspection, and the reasons for attending the inspection are quite compelling. First, your presence is a clear indication of your professionalism and concern for your client’s interests, two factors well-known to engender referrals. Secondly, it affords a very cogent opportunity to refocus your client’s attention to the limited nature of the inspection. For example, you could note the numerous obstacles, such as furniture, carpets and appliances, that can obviously inhibit the inspector’s ability to see certain areas of the home. Finally, should this transaction come to grief, your interests are usually perfectly aligned with the inspector’s, and your recollection of such limiting factors would provide powerful corroboration of the exonerating reasons that a defect was not discovered during the inspection.
How To Prepare For a Home Inspection
When you are in the inspection process of your home buying transaction, there are several items that need to be done before the inspection. In this article I am going to list and explain these items for a seller, buyer, and real estate agent. With this information you will be more prepared for your home inspection, thereby helping the inspector perform a more thorough and complete home inspection.
Home Sellers
Let’s start off with the sellers’ inspection. Many homeowners today are having their homes inspected before they are put on the market. This is a very savvy marketing tool to help your home sell quicker and more profitably. For your home inspector to do the best job possible, he or she will need several things to be done before they arrive to check the house over.
- If it happens to be winter and you are in a cold climate zone, please make sure the driveway is clear of ice and snow. An inspector cannot see through this stuff, thereby limiting the inspection.
- Please make sure that all utilities to the home are in operation mode. Inspectors do not light pilot lights, turn on water mains, or main panel breakers. If these are not in regular operating mode, the inspection will be limited and less beneficial to you.
- Make sure attic access is not obstructed in any way. You inspector will need to get in here to check insulation, roof sheathing, trusses, etc.
- I realize that if you are selling, you will be packing. However, please make the inspector will be able access windows, doors, electrical outlets and be able to see the walls and foundation.
Home Buyers
Now, if you are a buyer, your list will be a little shorter. But, it is still just as important to do your homework. You are paying for the inspection, so stay on top of everything.
- Once you call the inspector and set a date and time, call your real estate agent and verify this time. Some inspectors do this for you and some don’t. If this is a vacant foreclosure or bank owned property, find out who you need to contact in order to get ALL utilities turned on and into normal operation mode. Again, inspectors will not turn these items on for you at the time of the inspection. If they are not on, they will be disclaimed as not inspected.
- If you are having any specialty testing like lead, mold, water, septic, or pool done try to do these on the same day if the house is occupied. Sellers will thank you for not making too many trips and inconveniencing them.
Real Estate Agents
Now let’s focus on what the real estate agent needs to do before each home inspection. Some buyers may not realize what these people do for you.
- If the inspector has not verified the appointment before 3:00 the day before the inspection, call to verify.
- Help the buyer with getting utilities and the like into normal operating mode. This will allow a more thorough inspection and speed up the sale. It will work out better for you.
- If you will not be attending the inspection, please let the inspector know how to gain access.
- If there are going to be items not operating please call the client and explain this to them, so they may decide whether or not to reschedule the inspection. Most inspectors do not come back a second time for zero fee. Your buyer will be liable for this return fee, and probably upset about it.
I hope everyone can take something from this list and use it. I really do feel bad sometimes when the inspection is limited due to a lack of communication between all parties involved. If any of you have items that you feel should be on this list, please feel free to let me know. I am always willing to listen and learn how others operate.
Life expectancy of household materials and components
|
ADHESIVES, CAULK AND PAINTS
|
YEAR
|
|---|---|
|
Caulking
|
5-10
|
|
Paint
|
7
|
|
Roofing Adhesives
|
15+
|
|
APPLIANCES
|
YEARS
|
|
--> Air-ConditionersÂ
|
8-15
|
|
Boilers
|
20-35 |
|
Compactors
|
6
|
|
Dehumidifiers
|
8 |
|
Dishwashers
|
9 |
|
Disposers, Food waste
|
12 |
|
Dryers
|
13
|
|
Exhaust Fans
|
10
|
|
Freezers
|
10-20 |
|
Furnaces
|
15-25
|
|
Gas Ovens
|
10-18
|
|
Heat Pumps
|
16
|
|
Humidifiers
|
8 |
|
Microwave Ovens
|
9
|
|
Range/Oven Hoods
|
14
|
|
Electric Ranges
|
13-15
|
|
Gas Ranges
|
15-17
|
|
Refrigerators
|
9-13
|
|
Washing Machine
|
5 -15
|
|
Water Heaters
|
10-11
|
|
BATHROOM
|
YEARS
|
|
Cast Iron Bathtub
|
50
|
|
Fiberglass Bathtub and Shower
|
10-15
|
|
Shower Door
|
25
|
|
Toilet
|
50
|
|
CABINETRY & STORAGE
|
YEARS
|
|
Bath Cabinets
|
100+
|
| Closet Shelves | 100+ |
| Entertainment Centers/Home Office | 10 |
| Garage/Laundry Cabinets | 100+ |
| Kitchen Cabinets | 50 |
| Medicine Cabinets | 20+ |
|
Modular/Stock Manufacturing Type
|
50
|
|
CEILINGS, WALLS & FINISHES
|
YEARS
|
|
Acoustical Ceiling
|
100+
|
|
Ceiling Suspension
|
100+
|
|
Ceramic Tile
|
100+
|
| Standard Gypsum |
100+
|
|
COUNTERTOPS
|
YEARS
|
|
Cultured Marble
|
20
|
|
Natural Stone
|
100+
|
|
Laminate Countertops
|
20 - 30
|
|
Tile
|
100+
|
| Wood |
100+
|
|
DECKS
|
YEARS
|
|
Deck Planks
|
25
|
|
Wood
|
10-30
|
|
DOORS
|
YEARS
|
|
Closet (Interior)
|
100+
|
|
Fiberglass (Exterior)
|
100+
|
|
Fire-Rated Steel (Exterior)
|
100+
|
|
French (Interior)
|
30-50 |
| Screen (Exterior) |
40
|
| Vinyl (Exterior) | 20 |
|
Wood (Exterior)
|
100+
|
|
Wood (Hollow Core Interior)
|
20 - 30
|
|
Wood (Solid Core Interior)
|
30 - 100+
|
|
ENGINEERED LUMBER
|
YEARS
|
|
Engineered Trim
|
30
|
|
Laminated Strand Lumber
|
100+
|
|
Laminated Veneer Lumber
|
80+
|
|
Trusses
|
100+
|
|
FIXTURES & FAUCETS
|
YEARS
|
|
Accessible/ADA Products
|
100+
|
|
Enamel Steel Kitchen Sinks
|
5-10
|
|
Faucets
|
15-20
|
|
Modified Acrylic Kitchen Sinks
|
50
|
| Saunas/Steam Rooms |
15-20
|
|
Shower Enclosures/Modules
|
50
|
| Shower heads |
100+
|
|
Soapstone Kitchen Sinks
|
100+
|
| Toilets/Bidets |
100+
|
|
Whirlpool Tubs
|
20-50
|
|
FLOORING
|
YEARS
|
|
All Wooden Floors
|
100+
|
|
Bamboo
|
100+
|
|
Brick Pavers
|
100+
|
|
Carpet
|
8-10
|
|
Concrete
|
50+
|
|
Engineered Wood
|
50+
|
|
Exotic Wood
|
100+
|
|
Granite
|
100+
|
|
Laminate
|
15-25
|
|
Linoleum
|
25
|
|
Marble
|
100+
|
|
Other Domestic Wood
|
100+
|
|
Slate
|
100
|
|
Terrazo
|
75+
|
|
Tile
|
75-100
|
|
Vinyl
|
25
|
|
FOOTING & FOUNDATIONS
|
YEARS
|
|
Baseboard System
|
50
|
|
Bituminous Coating Waterproofing
|
10
|
| Cast Iron Waste Pipe (Above Ground) |
60+
|
|
Cast Iron Waste Pipe (Below ground)
|
50 - 60
|
| Concrete Block |
100+
|
|
Concrete Waste Pipe
|
100 |
|
Poured Footings and Foundations
|
100+
|
|
Pumps, Sumps, and Wells
|
5-12
|
|
Termite Proofing
|
12
|
|
FRAMING & OTHER STRUCTURAL SYSTEMS
|
YEARS
|
| Poured-Concrete Systems |
100+
|
|
Structural Insulated Panels
|
100+
|
|
Timber Frame Homes
|
100+
|
|
GARAGES
|
YEARS
|
|
Garage Doors
|
20-25
|
|
Garage Door Openers
|
10-15
|
|
Light Inserts
|
20
|
|
HOME TECHNOLOGY
|
YEARS
|
|
Built-in Audio
|
20
|
|
Home Automation Systems
|
100+
|
| Security Systems |
5-10
|
|
Smoke/Heat Detectors
|
Less Than 10
|
|
Wireless Home Networks
|
50+
|
|
HVAC
|
YEARS
|
|
Air Conditioners
|
10-15
|
|
Air Quality Systems
|
15
|
|
Attic Fans
|
15 - 25
|
|
Boilers
|
13-21
|
|
Burners
|
10+ |
|
Central Air Conditioning Unite
|
12-15
|
|
Dampers
|
20+ |
|
Dehumidifiers
|
8
|
|
Diffusers, Grilles, and Registers
|
25 |
|
Ducting
|
10 |
|
DX, Water, Or Steam
|
20 |
|
Electric
|
15 |
|
Electric Radiant Heater
|
40
|
|
Furnaces
|
15-20 |
|
Heat Exchangers, shell + tube
|
10-15
|
|
Heat Pumps
|
16 |
|
Heat Recovery Ventilators
|
20 |
|
Hot Water or Steam Radiant Heater
|
40 |
|
Induction and Fan-Coil Units
|
10-15 |
|
Molded Insulation
|
100+ |
|
Shell and Tube
|
20
|
|
Thermostats
|
35 |
| Ventilators | 7 |
|
Water Heaters
|
20+
|
| INSULATION & INFILTRATION BARRIERS |
YEARS
|
|
Batts/Rolls
|
100+
|
|
Cellulose
|
100+
|
|
Fiberglass
|
100+
|
| Foam |
100+
|
|
House Wrap
|
100+
|
|
Loose Fill
|
100+
|
|
JOB SITE EQUIPMENT
|
YEARS
|
|
Ladders
|
100+ |
| Lifts |
8-10
|
|
LIGHTING & ELECTRICAL
|
YEARS
|
| Accessories |
10+
|
| Bare Copper |
100+
|
|
Copper Clad Aluminum
|
100+
|
| Copper Plated |
100+
|
|
Lighting Controls
|
10+
|
|
MASONRY & CONCRETE
|
YEARS
|
| Brick |
100+
|
|
Sealer Caulking
|
2-20
|
|
Stone
|
100+
|
| Veneer |
100+
|
|
MOLDING & MILLWORK
|
YEARS
|
|
Attic Stairs
|
100+
|
|
Custom Millwork
|
100+
|
|
Prebuilt Stairs
|
100+
|
|
Stair Parts
|
100+
|
| Stairs, Circular & Spiral |
100+
|
|
PANELS
|
YEARS
|
|
Flooring Underlayment
|
25
|
|
Hardboard
|
30
|
| Particleboard |
60
|
|
Plywood
|
60
|
|
Softwood
|
30
|
|
Oriented-Strand Board
|
60
|
|
Wall Panels
|
100+
|
|
ROOFING
|
YEARS
|
|
Aluminum Coating
|
3-7
|
|
Asphalt Shingles (3 - tab)
|
20
|
| Asphalt (Architectural) |
30
|
|
BUR (Built-up Roof)
|
30
|
|
Clay/Concrete
|
100+ |
|
Coal and Tar
|
30
|
|
Copper
|
100+
|
|
EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) Rubber
|
15 - 25
|
|
Fiber Cement
|
25 |
|
Metal
|
40 - 50
|
|
Modified Bitumen
|
20
|
| Simulated Slate |
50
|
|
Slate
|
50+
|
| TPO |
7 - 20
|
|
Wood
|
30 |
|
SIDING & ACCESSORIES
|
YEARS
|
|
Aluminum Downspouts
|
30
|
|
Aluminum Gutters
|
20
|
|
Aluminum/Interior Shutters
|
10+
|
|
Brick
|
100+
|
|
Copper Downspouts
|
100
|
|
Copper Gutters
|
50+
|
|
Engineered Wood
|
100+
|
|
Fiber Cement
|
100+
|
|
Galvanized Steel Gutters/Downspouts
|
20
|
|
Manufactured Stone
|
100+
|
| Soffits/Fascias |
50
|
| Stone |
100+
|
| Stucco |
50 - 100
|
| Trim |
25
|
| Vinyl | 100+ |
| Wood/Exterior Shutters | 20 |
| Wood/Interior Shutters | 15+ |
|
SITE & LANDSCAPING
|
YEARS
|
|
American Red Clay
|
100+
|
|
Asphalt Driveway
|
15-20
|
|
Asphalt with Acrylic Coating or Cushion
|
12-15
|
|
Brick & Concrete Patios
|
15-25
|
|
Clay Paving
|
100+ |
|
Cleaning Equipment(Swimming Pool)
|
7-10 |
|
Coating
|
5-7 |
|
Concrete Shell (Swimming Pool)
|
25+ |
|
Concrete Walks
|
40- 50
|
|
Controllers
|
15
|
| Decking(Swimming Pool) |
15
|
| Fast-Dry Green Tennis Court | 100+ |
| Fast-Dry with Subsurface |
100+
|
|
Gravel Walks
|
4-6
|
|
Interior Finish( Swimming Pool)
|
10-35
|
| Polyvinyl Fences | 100+ |
| Sprinklers | 10-14 |
| Underground PVC Piping | 60+ |
|
Valves
|
20 |
|
Waterline Tile ( Swimming Pool)
|
10
|
|
SKYLIGHTS & WINDOWS
|
YEARS
|
|
Aluminum/Aluminum Clad
|
15-20
|
| Window Glazing | 10+ |
|
Vinyl Windows
|
20 - 40
|
|
Wood
|
30+
|
Inspecting for defects in older buildings
- Lead is a toxic metal that was once commonly used in the manufacture of household paint and plumbing fixtures, and as an additive to gasoline. While it has long been prohibited in new construction, lead-based paint and plumbing that weren't removed may present a significant health hazard. Homes constructed prior to 1978 may contain lead paint, which
can be ingested by small children or contaminate surrounding soil and vegetable gardens. It is easily identifiable by its alligator-like flaking pattern. Lead pipes, too, were used in homes up until the late 1940s, and they may allow lead to leach into drinking water. They can be identified by their dull gray color and the ease by which they can be scratched by keys or coins. - Asbestos insulation, which can increase the chances of developing lung cancer and mesothelioma, was used in homes between 1930 and 1950. Asbestos insulation should be left undisturbed until it can be removed by a qualified professional, as its fibers can be inhaled when they are airborne, creating a significant health hazard.
- Older homes were not constructed to meet modern energy efficiency requirements. They may suffer thermal losses from single-pane windows, insufficient or compressed insulation, leaking ductwork, and inefficient heaters and other appliances. It should be noted, however, that older homes better capitalize on natural sources of lighting, heating and ventilation through the use of design features such as exterior shutters, shade trees, and thick, heat-retaining masonry walls.
- Buried oil tanks were often abandoned and forgotten after homes switched to newer fuel sources. Today, these tanks pose a safety hazard to homeowners and their neighbors, as their contents may leak into surrounding soil. Disposal guidelines vary and may call for removal of the tank or filling it with sand or gravel. Soil testing may be required to investigate whether an abandoned fuel tank has leaked underground.
- Obsolete electrical components pose a fire and safety hazard, such as:
- aluminum wiring. From about 1965 to 1973, single-strand aluminum wiring was sometimes used in place of copper branch-circuit wiring in
residential electrical systems due to the escalating price of copper. After a decade of use by homeowners and electricians, weaknesses were discovered in the metal, which led to its disuse as a branch wiring material. Although properly maintained aluminum wiring is acceptable, aluminum will generally become defective faster than copper due to certain qualities inherent in the metal. It can be identified by its color or the labels “CO/ALR,” “aluminum” and “AL”; - knob-and-tube (K&T) wiring. This was an early standardized method of electrical wiring in buildings from about 1880 to the 1940s. While codes do not require its removal, K&T wiring often suffers from unsafe modifications, old age, overheating, and lack of a ground wire. It can be identified by its characteristic porcelain insulating tubes;
- a lack of ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs). Homes built before the 1970s may not have been equipped with GFCI protection, which guards against overloads, short circuits and ground faults; and
- a lack of grounded receptacles, which provide a safe path to ground for stray electrical current. Most major appliances, such as stoves, refrigerators and computers, have three-prong plugs and require three-slot or grounded receptacles. Homes in the U.S. built before 1962 were not constructed with three-slot receptacles.
- aluminum wiring. From about 1965 to 1973, single-strand aluminum wiring was sometimes used in place of copper branch-circuit wiring in
- Wells, cesspools and septic tanks were commonly used before homes and buildings were connected to public sewer and water systems. If they were abandoned and not removed, these elements pose hazards related to their deterioration and collapse.
- Radon is a naturally occurring gas that has been identified as the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States. It usually enters the home through cracks in the foundation, a common problem found in vintage construction. Radon cannot be seen, smelled or tasted, so concerned homeowners should consult with their InterNACHI inspector about radon testing during their next scheduled inspection.