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Monday, 14 March 2011 23:38

Online Payment Center

Secure and Convenient Online Payment Center

Any business or consumer with an email address can securely and conveniently make payments online. Legacy Inspection uses PayPal for secure online payment processing. You do not need a PayPal account to process payments from any of the accepted major credit or debit cards.

If you have any questions regarding PayPal, call our office or visit them online at www.paypal.com.

Thank You For Your Business, We Appreciate It Very Much!

Legacy Inspection is a division of Legacy Contractors Inc.
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YOU ARE NOT REQUIRED TO HAVE OR USE A PAYPAL ACCOUNT

You may choose to use your PayPal account but you are not required to. Any major credit card or ATM card with a VISA or MASTERCARD logo can be used. Once you begin the payment by clicking on the PAY NOW button above:

  1. In the DESCRIPTION box type the services your are paying for, i.e. Home Inspection, Warranty Inspection, Tenant Inspection, etc.
  2. In the UNIT PRICE box enter the amount of your payment and click UPDATE TOTALS
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  4. To make a PayPal payment simply log into your PayPal account

The payment process is short, simple, and secure. If you have any questions or concerns please call our office.

Saturday, 27 November 2010 04:29

About Our Home Inspection Business

Information is your best tool for managing risk!

We work directly for YOU! Our job is to insure that you understand every item that may be reported during the inspection. The majority of our business is from client referrals and from recommendations by real estate agents that appreciate how our attention to detail protects them and their clients.

Offering more is part of what makes Legacy Inspection a more Valuable Inspector

The Report

We provide a computer generated report using Home Inspector Pro, the very best inspection software available in the industry today. Not only is it comprehensive, but also it is extremely easy to read and pleasant to look at. The report features a summary section with critical items listed in red.

The Photo Documentation

There are two well-known sayings "A picture is worth a thousand words" and "Seeing is believing". The digital photos we provide will further document, and make clarification of the issues easier for everyone.

The Post Inspection Value

If your home inspection doesn't reveal any significant issues, do not feel that you have wasted your money, you received peace of mind.

The Report Delivery

The inspection report is emailed within 48 hours of the inspection (usually next day)!

The Types of Home Inspections We Offer

Buyers Inspection

Our full inspections for buyers meet or exceed the Standards of Practice of The International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) and The California Real Estate Inspection Association

Bank Owned/ REO / Foreclosure Inspection

With many home purchases being made on homes in foreclosure, and sold "as is" condition, it's important to use an inspector who knows what to focus on for these inspections. You must know all the major defects up front, because there will be no recourse once your purchase has been finalized. This inspection follows the same Standards of Practice as our full inspections for buyers

Home Sellers Inspection

One of the main reasons a home sale transaction can fall apart, is the discovery of defects as a result of a full inspection, or in the seller's case, lack of an inspection. A seller's report is not meant to replace buyer's inspections. It's to uncover defects in advance so that the buyer's inspections don't become deal-breakers. Eventually your buyers are going to conduct an inspection. You may as well know what they are going to find by getting there first.

Move In Certified Inspection

Move IN Certified inspections are very similar to a listing inspection, but it takes it up a notch. MoveInCertified homes have been pre-inspected by member inspectors and the sellers confirm that there are no major systems in need of immediate repair or replacement and no known safety hazards. The inspection reports are hosted on http://www.fetchreport.com/ Ask the listing agent or seller for access to view. Please read recent Los Angeles Times article about seller inspections. http://www.nachi.org/latimessellingtactic.htm

New Home Warranty Inspections

You bought yourself a new home, but now your 1 year builders warranty is about to expire. The warranty was your life raft, let us inspect your home before your warranty expires. Why risk having to pay for repairs that could have been discovered with a thorough inspection? Let the builder pay to fix any found deficiencies. You certainly don't want to pay to repair or replace any items when you sell your house.

New Construction | Phase Inspections

Don’t expect your local municipal Inspectors to do a thorough inspection on your new house. In this day of go and blow construction, you need your own personal inspector to look after your greatest investment - your home. The best choice is to have the inspector inspect the property in various phases as it is being constructed, if this is not possible then have your brand new home inspected, this way the builder has to repair the deficiencies. Many times there are more issues with a brand new house, than there is with older houses.

FHA/HUD Compliance Inspections

U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development ID Number N127

Safety Inspections

Commercial; Retail, Light Commercial, & Residential Properties

A commercial inspection is the process of an inspector collecting information through visual observation during a walk-through survey of the subject property, conducting research about the property, and then generating a meaningful report about the condition of the property based on the observations made and research conducted by the inspector. A commercial inspection requires the inspector to make observations, conduct research, and report findings.

Ancillary Inspections (provided by affiliates or sub-contractors)

Radon Inspection

You can't see radon. And you can't smell it or taste it. But it may be a problem in your home. Radon is estimated to cause many thousands of deaths each year. That's because when you breathe air containing radon, you can get lung cancer. In fact, the Surgeon General has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States today. Only smoking causes more lung cancer deaths. If you smoke and your home has high radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is especially high.

Mold Inspection

The EPA states that, "It is important to take precautions to limit your exposure to mold and mold spores. Avoid breathing in mold or mold spores". The EPA also recommends that if you suspect you have a hidden mold problem you should consider hiring an experienced professional to avoid exposure to potentially massive doses of mold spores. Mold damages what it grows on. The longer it grows the more damage it can cause. If there is a mold problem in your home, you should clean up the mold promptly. Mold can be hidden, growing on the water from a hidden leak, and can develop into a potentially large problem if not caught in time.

Wood Infestation | Termite Inspection

As a protective measure, banks and lending institutions often require that homes be inspected for damage from termites or other wood-destroying insects before closing the sale of the home. A Wood-Destroying Insect Inspection Report (WDIIR) is a document prepared only by a licensed pest control business that informs the lending institution and buyer about termite damage or presence. Member inspectors may be licensed to conduct their own wood infestation inspection, or they may work with a licensed pest control company.

Water Testing

Lead is a naturally occurring element present in the earth's crust. It has received attention over the years as a contaminant in drinking water for good reason. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (USEPA) calls it, "a highly toxic metal the agency considers a major public health threat" (1). It can cause damage to both adults and children, although in children the effects tend to be greater (i.e. mental retardation, kidney damage, delayed development, etc.). Lead leaches into drinking water from lead containing plumbing fixtures, pipes, and solder.. If you are concerned about possible lead contamination in your drinking water, have an inspector test the water.

Energy Loss | Energy Star Inspections

If you are interested in getting specific recommendations for improving the efficiency of your home, consider contacting a professional Home Energy Auditor. A professional auditor can use a variety of techniques and equipment to determine the energy efficiency of your home. Thorough audits often use equipment such as blower doors, which measure the extent of leaks in the building envelope, and infrared cameras, which reveal hard-to-detect areas of air infiltration and missing insulation.

Roof Certification

Pool and Spa

The seller has accepted your clients' offer and now, with your help, your clients must choose a home inspector. Should you steer them toward the inspector who writes the softest reports? Should you steer them toward the inspector who pays to be on your office's preferred vendor list? Should you help them find the cheapest inspector? The answers to these questions are of course No, No, and Hell, no.

You have a fiduciary duty to your client and, therefore, must recommend the very best inspectors. If you recommend a patty-cake inspector, an inspector who indirectly pays for your recommendation, or a cheap inspector, you violate your fiduciary duty to your client.

The National Association of REALTORs defines your duties in their Code of Ethics. Article 1 requires you to protect and promote your clients' interests. Article 6 requires you to disclose any financial benefit you may receive from recommending related real estate services (this also includes any benefit to your broker).

Because most real estate agents get paid only if the real estate transaction successfully takes place, your personal interests and your fiduciary duties already conflict. Don't make your situation any worse. The best way to avoid negligent referral claims, to operate ethically, and to fulfill your fiduciary duty is to help your client find an inspector based solely on merit. And although no real estate agent can guarantee the thoroughness of any particular inspector, there is a strong correlation between an inspector's fees and his/her competence (in other words, you get what you pay for). Helping your client find a cheap inspector for the purchase of their lifetime is a violation of your fiduciary duty. When in doubt, shop price, and seek out the most expensive inspectors for your clients.

Monday, 13 December 2010 20:27

Ten Things You Should Know About Mold

  • Potential health effects and symptoms associated with mold exposures include allergic
    reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints.
  • There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment;
    the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.
  • If mold is a problem in your home or school, you must clean up the mold and eliminate
    sources of moisture.
  • Fix the source of the water problem or leak to prevent mold growth.
  • Reduce indoor humidity (to 30-60%) to decrease mold growth by:
    1. venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating sources to the outside;
    2. using air conditioners and de-humidifiers;
    3. increasing ventilation;
    4. and using exhaust fans whenever cooking, dishwashing, and cleaning.
  • Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings within 24-48 hours to
    prevent mold growth.
  • Clean mold off hard surfaces with water and detergent, and dry completely. Absorbent
    materials such as ceiling tiles, that are moldy, may need to be replaced.
  • Prevent condensation: Reduce the potential for condensation on cold surfaces (i.e., windows,
    piping, exterior walls, roof, or floors) by adding insulation.
  • In areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem, do not install carpeting (i.e., by
    drinking fountains, by classroom sinks, or on concrete floors with leaks or frequent
    condensation).
  • Molds can be found almost anywhere; they can grow on virtually any substance, providing
    moisture is present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods.
  • Feel free to download this page of tips in a printer-friendly PDF format. Realtors can reproduce it and
    make it part of your real estate information packet.

    Monday, 13 December 2010 20:25

    Childproofing Your Home

    Childproofing Your Home: 12 Safety Devices to Protect Your Children

    About 2.5 million children are injured or killed by hazards in the home each year. The good news is that many of these incidents can be prevented by using simple child-safety devices on the market today. Any safety device you buy should be sturdy enough to prevent injury to your child, yet easy for you to use. It's important to follow installation instructions carefully. In addition, if you have older children in the house, be sure they re-secure safety devices. Remember, too, that no device is completely childproof; determined youngsters have been known to disable them. You can childproof your home for a fraction of what it would cost to have a professional do it. And safety devices are easy to find. You can buy them at hardware stores, baby equipment shops, supermarkets, drug stores, home and linen stores, and through online and mail-order catalogues.
    Here are some child-safety devices that can help prevent many injuries to young children.

    1. Use safety latches and locks for cabinets and drawers in kitchens, bathrooms, and other areas to help prevent poisonings and other injuries. Safety latches and locks on cabinets and drawers can help prevent children from gaining access to medicines and household cleaners, as well as knives and other sharp objects.

    Look for safety latches and locks that adults can easily install and use, but that are sturdy enough to withstand pulls and tugs from children. Safety latches are not a guarantee of protection, but they can make it more difficult for children to reach dangerous substances. Even products with child-resistant packaging should be locked away out of reach; this packaging is not childproof.

    Typical cost of a safety latch or lock: less than $2.

    2. Use safety gates to help prevent falls down stairs and to keep children away from dangerous areas. Look for safety gates that children cannot dislodge easily, but that adults can open and close without difficulty. For the top of stairs, gates that screw into the wall are more secure than "pressure gates."

    New safety gates that meet safety standards display a certification seal from the Juvenile Products Manufacturers Association (JPMA). If you have an older safety gate, be sure it doesn't have "V" shapes that are large enough for a child's head and neck to fit into.

    Typical cost of a safety gate: $13 to $40.

    3. Use door knob covers and door locks to help prevent children from entering rooms and other areas with possible dangers, including swimming pools.

    Be sure the door knob cover is sturdy enough not to break, but allows a door to be opened quickly by an adult in case of emergency. By restricting access to potentially hazardous rooms in the home, door knob covers could help prevent many kinds of injuries. To prevent access to swimming pools, door locks should be placed high, out of reach of young children. Locks should be used in addition to fences and door alarms. Sliding glass doors, with locks that must be re-secured after each use, are often not an effective barrier to pools.

    Typical cost of a door knob cover: $1; door lock: $5 and up.

    4. Use anti-scald devices for faucets and shower heads, and set your water heater temperature to 120° F to help prevent burns from hot water. A plumber may need to install these.

    Typical cost of an anti-scald device: $6 to $30.

    5. Use smoke detectors on every level of your home and near bedrooms to alert you to fires. Smoke detectors are essential safety devices for protection against fire deaths and injuries. Check smoke detectors once a month to make sure they're working. If detectors are battery-operated, change batteries at least once a year, or consider using 10-year batteries.

    Typical cost of a smoke detector: less than $10.
    6. Use window guards and safety netting to help prevent falls from windows, balconies, decks and landings. Window guards and safety netting for balconies and decks can help prevent serious falls. Check these safety devices frequently to make sure they are secure and properly installed and maintained. There should be no more than 4 inches between the bars of the window guard. If you have window guards, be sure at least one window in each room can be easily used for escape in a fire. Window screens are not effective for preventing children from falling out of windows.

    Typical cost of a window guard or safety netting: $8 to $16.

    7. Use corner and edge bumpers to help prevent injuries from falls against sharp edges of furniture and fireplaces. Corner and edge bumpers can be used with furniture and fireplace hearths to help prevent injuries from falls, and to soften falls against sharp and rough edges.

    Be sure to look for bumpers that stay securely on furniture and hearth edges.

    Typical cost of a corner and edge bumper: $1 and up.

    8. Use outlet covers and outlet plates to help prevent children from electrical shock and possible electrocution.

    Be sure the outlet protectors cannot be easily removed by children and are large enough so that children cannot choke on them.

    Typical cost of an outlet cover: less than $2.

    9. Use a carbon monoxide (CO) detector outside bedrooms to help prevent CO poisoning. Consumers should install CO detectors near sleeping areas in their homes. Households that should use CO detectors include those with gas or oil heat or with attached garages.

    Typical cost of a carbon monoxide (CO) detector: $30 to $70.

    10. Cut window blind cords; use safety tassels and inner cord stops instead to help prevent children from strangling in blind-cord loops. Window blind cord safety tassels on miniblinds and tension devices on vertical blinds and drapery cords can help prevent deaths and injuries from strangulation in the loops of cords. Inner cord stops can help prevent strangulation in the inner cords of window blinds.

    For older miniblinds, cut the cord loop, remove the buckle, and put safety tassels on each cord. Be sure that older vertical blinds and drapery cords have tension or tie-down devices to hold the cords tight. When buying new miniblinds, vertical blinds and draperies, ask for safety features to prevent child strangulation.

    Prices vary.

    11. Use door stops and door holders to help prevent injuries to fingers and hands. Door stops and door holders on doors and door hinges can help prevent small fingers and hands from being pinched or crushed in doors and door hinges.
    Be sure any safety device for doors is easy to use and is not likely to break into small parts, which could be a choking hazard for young children.

    Typical cost of a door stop and door holder: less than $4.

    12. Use a cell or cordless phone to make it easier to continuously watch young children, especially when they're in bathtubs, swimming pools, or other potentially dangerous areas. Cordless phones help you watch your child continuously without leaving the vicinity to answer a phone call. Cordless phones are especially helpful when children are in or near water, whether it's the bathtub, the swimming pool, or the beach.

    Typical cost of a cordless phone: $30 and up.
    In summary, there are a number of different safety devices that can be purchased to ensure the safety of children in the home. Homeowners can ask Legacy Inspection about these and other safety measures during their next inspection.

    by Joe Ferry, Esquire and Nick Gromicko, InterNACHI Founder

    In a world where litigation is the preferred method of resolving even the most minor conflicts, it should come as no surprise to real estate agents that they are increasingly finding themselves named as defendants in lawsuits wherein purchasers of residential real estate are claiming damages as the result of the alleged fraud and/or negligence of one or more of the participants in the transaction.
    Aggrieved purchasers of residential real estate are operating in a target-rich environment and have a remarkable array of potentially responsible parties from which to seek financial redress for their claimed grievances.  In lawsuit after lawsuit, one finds multiple defendants: the sellers, the sellers’ agent, the sellers’ agent’s broker, the buyers’ agent, the buyers’ agent’s broker, the home inspector, the pest inspector, and so on.  The alleged grievances can include multiple counts, as well: fraud, negligence, breach of contract, etc.
    Once a lawsuit has been filed and you have been named as a defendant, you can kiss your E&O deductible goodbye, even if you are blameless, which, in the overwhelming majority of instances, you are, because the overwhelming majority of these types of lawsuits is completely devoid of merit.  The size of these complaints and the sheer number of their allegations guarantee it.  No competent lawyer could possibly read and respond to the vastly overblown pleadings that normally characterize these types of lawsuits for anything close to the typical real estate agent’s E&O deductible.
    Therefore, the best strategy is to avoid being named in the suit in the first place.  Fortunately, there are a number of effective policies that, if followed, can sharply reduce and even eliminate your exposure to being named in a meritless lawsuit.
    Lawsuits resulting from a residential real estate transaction almost always result from a feeling on the buyers’ part that they got less than they bargained for.  After they moved into the property, they discovered that it was not all that it was cracked up to be.  Sometimes, the alleged defects were present at the time of the home inspection but, for one reason or another, were not discovered by the home inspection.  The fact that the alleged defects were not discovered by the home inspector does not automatically mean that the home inspector was negligent or that you were negligent for recommending the inspector -- far from it.
    There could be a large number of reasons why the alleged defect was not discovered at the inspection that fall well short of actionable negligence.  The defect could be something that is not discovered because its inspection is simply not contemplated by the home inspection, such as a determination of the adequacy of any structural system or component, for example.  Such a determination is outside the scope of a home inspection.  Or it could be something that is not reported because it was concealed by furniture on the day of the inspection, or was located in an area that was inaccessible.  Not infrequently, known defects are deliberately concealed by the sellers.  And far more frequently than anyone would imagine, the alleged defect that is the subject of the buyers’ complaint was actually discovered by the home inspector and noted in the inspection report, but not acted upon by the buyers because they did not bother to read the inspection report.
    Therefore, when selecting a home inspector for your client, you should bear uppermost in your mind that the home inspector is your first line of defense against a meritless negligence claim.
    Top Eight Ways You Can Sharply Reduce Your Professional Liability Exposure:
    1. Insist that your client hire a professional home inspector to inspect the property, and strongly recommend that the inspection also include ancillary inspections for the presence of wood-destroying insects, and such harmful pathogens as mold and radon.
    2. Take the time to manage your clients’ expectations of what can reasonably be discovered by a limited visual inspection of a property that is full of furniture, carpets and stored items that further physically limit the scope of an already limited inspection.
    3. Be sure to carry your own Professional Liability Insurance to protect yourself from allegations that you should have independently verified that the property was defect-free.
    4. Review the inspector’s Pre-Inspection Agreement to make sure that it contains a Notice Clause that requires the buyers to notify the inspector within no more than 14 days of the discovery of any defect for which they believe he is responsible.
    5. Avoid conflicts of interest.  Never recommend an inspector who participates in preferred vendor schemes.  All major inspector associations prohibit participation in such undue praise-purchasing schemes.  You have a fiduciary duty to recommend the very best inspectors based solely on merit, not money.  And it goes without saying that you should never recommend any inspector with whom you have a close personal or blood relationship.
    6. Recommend the high-value inspector, not the low-price inspector.  Good inspectors charge accordingly.  Trying to save your client $100 on an inspection could cost them $10,000.
    7. Only recommend inspectors who adhere to a strict Code of Ethics and Standards of Practice, such as members of InterNACHI.
    8. Always attend the home inspection.  Many real estate agents have been advised never to attend a home inspection, allegedly by real estate attorneys.  Agents who say that they have received such advice are never able to articulate its rationale.  You are not any less likely to be named in a suit by hiding during the inspection, and the reasons for attending the inspection are quite compelling.  First, your presence is a clear indication of your professionalism and concern for your client’s interests, two factors well-known to engender referrals.  Secondly, it affords a very cogent opportunity to refocus your client’s attention to the limited nature of the inspection.  For example, you could note the numerous obstacles, such as furniture, carpets and appliances, that can obviously inhibit the inspector’s ability to see certain areas of the home.  Finally, should this transaction come to grief, your interests are usually perfectly aligned with the inspector’s, and your recollection of such limiting factors would provide powerful corroboration of the exonerating reasons that a defect was not discovered during the inspection.
    Monday, 13 December 2010 20:23

    How To Prepare For a Home Inspection

    When you are in the inspection process of your home buying transaction, there are several items that need to be done before the inspection. In this article I am going to list and explain these items for a seller, buyer, and real estate agent. With this information you will be more prepared for your home inspection, thereby helping the inspector perform a more thorough and complete home inspection.

    Home Sellers

    Let’s start off with the sellers’ inspection. Many homeowners today are having their homes inspected before they are put on the market. This is a very savvy marketing tool to help your home sell quicker and more profitably. For your home inspector to do the best job possible, he or she will need several things to be done before they arrive to check the house over.

    • If it happens to be winter and you are in a cold climate zone, please make sure the driveway is clear of ice and snow. An inspector cannot see through this stuff, thereby limiting the inspection.
    • Please make sure that all utilities to the home are in operation mode. Inspectors do not light pilot lights, turn on water mains, or main panel breakers. If these are not in regular operating mode, the inspection will be limited and less beneficial to you.
    • Make sure attic access is not obstructed in any way. You inspector will need to get in here to check insulation, roof sheathing, trusses, etc.
    • I realize that if you are selling, you will be packing. However, please make the inspector will be able access windows, doors, electrical outlets and be able to see the walls and foundation.

    Home Buyers

    Now, if you are a buyer, your list will be a little shorter. But, it is still just as important to do your homework. You are paying for the inspection, so stay on top of everything.

    • Once you call the inspector and set a date and time, call your real estate agent and verify this time. Some inspectors do this for you and some don’t. If this is a vacant foreclosure or bank owned property, find out who you need to contact in order to get ALL utilities turned on and into normal operation mode. Again, inspectors will not turn these items on for you at the time of the inspection. If they are not on, they will be disclaimed as not inspected.
    • If you are having any specialty testing like lead, mold, water, septic, or pool done try to do these on the same day if the house is occupied. Sellers will thank you for not making too many trips and inconveniencing them.

    Real Estate Agents

    Now let’s focus on what the real estate agent needs to do before each home inspection. Some buyers may not realize what these people do for you.

    • If the inspector has not verified the appointment before 3:00 the day before the inspection, call to verify.
    • Help the buyer with getting utilities and the like into normal operating mode. This will allow a more thorough inspection and speed up the sale. It will work out better for you.
    • If you will not be attending the inspection, please let the inspector know how to gain access.
    • If there are going to be items not operating please call the client and explain this to them, so they may decide whether or not to reschedule the inspection. Most inspectors do not come back a second time for zero fee. Your buyer will be liable for this return fee, and probably upset about it.

    I hope everyone can take something from this list and use it. I really do feel bad sometimes when the inspection is limited due to a lack of communication between all parties involved. If any of you have items that you feel should be on this list, please feel free to let me know. I am always willing to listen and learn how others operate.

    The following chart details the predicted life expectancy of household materials and components.
    Interior and exterior paints can last for 15 years or longer, however homeowners often paint more frequently. Surface preparation is likely the most important determiner of paint life expectancy.
    ADHESIVES, CAULK AND PAINTS
    YEAR
    Caulking
    5-10
    Paint
    7
    Roofing Adhesives
    15+
    Appliance life expectancy depends to a great extent on the use it receives. Furthermore, consumers often replace appliances long before they become worn out due to changes in styling, technology and consumer preferences. Of a home’s major appliances, gas ranges have the longest life expectancy.
    APPLIANCES
    YEARS
    --> Air-Conditioners 
    8-15
    Boilers
    20-35
    Compactors
    6
    Dehumidifiers
    8
    Dishwashers
    9
    Disposers, Food waste
    12
    Dryers
    13
    Exhaust Fans
    10
    Freezers
    10-20
    Furnaces
    15-25
    Gas Ovens
    10-18
    Heat Pumps
    16
    Humidifiers
    8
    Microwave Ovens
    9
    Range/Oven Hoods
    14
    Electric Ranges
    13-15
    Gas Ranges
    15-17
    Refrigerators
    9-13
    Washing Machine
    5 -15
    Water Heaters
    10-11
    BATHROOM
    YEARS
    Cast Iron Bathtub
    50
    Fiberglass  Bathtub and Shower
    10-15
    Shower Door
    25
    Toilet
    50
    Kitchens are in the process of becoming larger and more elaborate, and together with the family room, modern kitchens now form the “great room.”
    Great rooms are a place to cook as well as a space where people gather to read, talk, eat, do homework, surf the Internet, and pay bills.
    CABINETRY & STORAGE
    YEARS
    Bath Cabinets
    100+
    Closet Shelves 100+
    Entertainment Centers/Home Office 10
    Garage/Laundry Cabinets 100+
    Kitchen Cabinets 50
    Medicine Cabinets 20+
    Modular/Stock Manufacturing Type
    50
    Walls and ceilings last the full lifespan of the home.
    CEILINGS, WALLS & FINISHES
    YEARS
    Acoustical Ceiling
    100+
    Ceiling Suspension
    100+
    Ceramic Tile
    100+
    Standard Gypsum
    100+
    Natural stone countertops, which are less expensive than they were just a few years ago, are becoming more popular and one can expect them to last a lifetime. Cultured marble countertops have a shorter life expectancy, however.
    COUNTERTOPS
    YEARS
    Cultured Marble
    20
    Natural Stone
    100+
    Laminate Countertops
    20 - 30
    Tile
    100+
    Wood
    100+
    Decks are exposed to a wide range of conditions in different climates, from wind and hail in some areas to relatively consistent, dry weather, in others. Under ideal conditions, they have a life expectancy of about 20 years but they can fail much sooner.
    DECKS
    YEARS
    Deck Planks
    25
    Wood
    10-30
    Exterior fiberglass, steel and wood doors will last as long as the house, while vinyl and screen doors have a shorter life expectancy. Closet doors may last a lifetime, but French doors will fail sooner.
    DOORS
    YEARS
    Closet (Interior)
    100+
    Fiberglass (Exterior)
    100+
    Fire-Rated Steel (Exterior)
    100+
    French (Interior)
    30-50
    Screen (Exterior)
    40
    Vinyl (Exterior) 20
    Wood (Exterior)
    100+
    Wood (Hollow Core Interior)
    20 - 30
    Wood (Solid Core Interior)
    30 - 100+
    Floor and roof trusses and laminated strand lumber are durable household components, and engineered trim may last 30 years.
    ENGINEERED LUMBER
    YEARS
    Engineered Trim
    30
    Laminated Strand Lumber
    100+
    Laminated Veneer Lumber
    80+
    Trusses
    100+
    FIXTURES & FAUCETS
    YEARS
    Accessible/ADA Products
    100+
    Enamel Steel Kitchen Sinks
    5-10
    Faucets
    15-20
    Modified Acrylic Kitchen Sinks
    50
    Saunas/Steam Rooms
    15-20
    Shower Enclosures/Modules
    50
    Shower heads
    100+
    Soapstone Kitchen Sinks
    100+
    Toilets/Bidets
    100+
    Whirlpool Tubs
    20-50
    Natural wood floorings may las as long as the house. Marble, slate, and granite are also expected to last for about 100 years, but require more maintenance. Vinyl floors last up to 50 years, linoleum about 25 years, and carpet between 8 and 10 years (with appropriate maintenance and normal traffic).
    FLOORING
    YEARS
    All Wooden Floors
    100+
    Bamboo
    100+
    Brick Pavers
    100+
    Carpet
    8-10
    Concrete
    50+
    Engineered Wood
    50+
    Exotic Wood
    100+
    Granite
    100+
    Laminate
    15-25
    Linoleum
    25
    Marble
    100+
    Other Domestic Wood
    100+
    Slate
    100
    Terrazo
    75+
    Tile
    75-100
    Vinyl
    25
    Concrete and poured block footings and foundations will last a lifetime, assuming they were properly built. Termite proofing of foundations will last about 12 years if the chemical barriers put in place during construction are left intact. Waterproofing with bituminous coating lasts 10 years, but if it cracks it is immediately damaged.
    FOOTING & FOUNDATIONS
    YEARS
    Baseboard System
    50
    Bituminous Coating Waterproofing
    10
    Cast Iron Waste Pipe (Above Ground)
    60+
    Cast Iron Waste Pipe (Below ground)
    50 - 60
    Concrete Block
    100+
    Concrete Waste Pipe
    100
    Poured Footings and Foundations
    100+
    Pumps, Sumps, and Wells
    5-12
    Termite Proofing
    12
    Framing and structural systems have extended longevities; poured-concrete systems, timber frame houses and structural insulated panels will all last a lifetime. Wall panels and roof and floor trusses will also last a lifetime. Hardboard, softwood, and plywood last an average of 30 years, while OSB and particleboard are expected to last twice that long.
    FRAMING & OTHER STRUCTURAL SYSTEMS
    YEARS
    Poured-Concrete Systems
    100+
    Structural Insulated Panels
    100+
    Timber Frame Homes
    100+
    Garage door openers are expected to last 10 to 15 years, and light inserts will last slightly longer.
    GARAGES
    YEARS
    Garage Doors
    20-25
    Garage Door Openers
    10-15
    Light Inserts
    20
    Home technology systems have diverse life expectancies. While a built-in audio system will last 20 years, security systems and heat/smoke detectors have life expectancies of 5 to 10 years. Wireless home networks and home automation systems are expected to work properly for more than 50 years.
    HOME TECHNOLOGY
    YEARS
    Built-in Audio
    20
    Home Automation Systems
    100+
    Security Systems
    5-10
    Smoke/Heat Detectors
    Less Than 10
    Wireless Home Networks
    50+
    Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems require regular maintenance in order to work properly, but even well-maintained systems only last 15 to 25 years. Furnaces, on average, last 15-20 years, heat pumps last 16 years, and air conditioning units last 10-15 years. Tankless water heaters last more than 20 years, while an electric or gas water heater has a life expectancy of about 10 years. Thermostats may last 35 years but they are usually replaced before they fail due to technological improvements.
    HVAC
    YEARS
    Air Conditioners
    10-15
    Air Quality Systems
    15
    Attic Fans
    15 - 25
    Boilers
    13-21
    Burners
    10+
    Central Air Conditioning Unite
    12-15
    Dampers
    20+
    Dehumidifiers
    8
    Diffusers, Grilles, and Registers
    25
    Ducting
    10
    DX, Water, Or Steam
    20
    Electric
    15
    Electric Radiant Heater
    40
    Furnaces
    15-20
    Heat Exchangers, shell + tube
    10-15
    Heat Pumps
    16
    Heat Recovery Ventilators
    20
    Hot Water or Steam Radiant Heater
    40
    Induction and Fan-Coil Units
    10-15
    Molded Insulation
    100+
    Shell and Tube
    20
    Thermostats
    35
    Ventilators 7
    Water Heaters
    20+
    As long as they are not punctured, cut, or burned and are kept dry and away from UV rays, cellulose, fiberglass, and foam insulation materials will last a lifetime. This is true regardless of whether they were installed as loose fill, house wrap, or batts/rolls.
    INSULATION & INFILTRATION BARRIERS
    YEARS
    Batts/Rolls
    100+
    Cellulose
    100+
    Fiberglass
    100+
    Foam
    100+
    House Wrap
    100+
    Loose Fill
    100+
    Ladders are expected to last a lifetime, but life expectancy of lifts is significantly shorter.
    JOB SITE EQUIPMENT
    YEARS
    Ladders
    100+
    Lifts
    8-10
    Copper plated wiring, copper clad aluminum, and bare copper wiring are expected to last a lifetime, whereas electrical accessories and lighting controls may need to be replaced after 10 years.
    LIGHTING & ELECTRICAL
    YEARS
    Accessories
    10+
    Bare Copper
    100+
    Copper Clad Aluminum
    100+
    Copper Plated
    100+
    Lighting Controls
    10+
    Masonry is one of the most enduring household components. Fireplaces, chimneys, and brick veneers can last the lifetime of a home.
    MASONRY & CONCRETE
    YEARS
    Brick
    100+
    Sealer Caulking
    2-20
    Stone
    100+
    Veneer
    100+
    Custom millwork will last a lifetime, and all stairs – circular and spiral stairs, prebuilt stairs and attic stairs – are expected to last a lifetime.
    MOLDING & MILLWORK
    YEARS
    Attic Stairs
    100+
    Custom Millwork
    100+
    Prebuilt Stairs
    100+
    Stair Parts
    100+
    Stairs, Circular & Spiral
    100+
    Lifetime of any wood product depend on level of moisture intrusion
    PANELS
    YEARS
    Flooring Underlayment
    25
    Hardboard
    30
    Particleboard
    60
    Plywood
    60
    Softwood
    30
    Oriented-Strand Board
    60
    Wall Panels
    100+
    The life of a roof depends on local weather conditions, building and design, material quality, and adequate maintenance. Slate, copper, and clay/concrete roofs have the longest life expectancy while roofs made of asphalt shingles, fiber cement or wood shakes will fail sooner.
    ROOFING
    YEARS
    Aluminum Coating
    3-7
    Asphalt Shingles (3 - tab)
    20
    Asphalt (Architectural)
    30
    BUR (Built-up Roof)
    30
    Clay/Concrete
    100+
    Coal and Tar
    30
    Copper
    100+
    EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) Rubber
    15 - 25
    Fiber Cement
    25
    Metal
    40 - 50
    Modified Bitumen
    20
    Simulated Slate
    50
    Slate
    50+
    TPO
    7 - 20
    Wood
    30
    Outside materials typically last a lifetime. Brick, vinyl, engineered wood, stone (both natural and manufactured), and fiber cement will last as long the house. Exterior wood shutters are expected to last 20 years, depending on weather conditions. Gutters have a life expectancy of more than 50 years if made of copper and for 20 years if made of aluminum. Copper downspouts last 100 years or more, while aluminum ones will last 30 years.
    SIDING & ACCESSORIES
    YEARS
    Aluminum Downspouts
    30
    Aluminum Gutters
    20
    Aluminum/Interior Shutters
    10+
    Brick
    100+
    Copper Downspouts
    100
    Copper Gutters
    50+
    Engineered Wood
    100+
    Fiber Cement
    100+
    Galvanized Steel Gutters/Downspouts
    20
    Manufactured Stone
    100+
    Soffits/Fascias
    50
    Stone
    100+
    Stucco
    50 - 100
    Trim
    25
    Vinyl 100+
    Wood/Exterior Shutters 20
    Wood/Interior Shutters 15+
    Most landscaping elements have a life expectancy of 15 to 25 years. Sprinklers and valves last about 20 years, while underground PVC piping has a lifespan of 25 years. Polyvinyl fences are designed to last as long as the house, and asphalt driveways should last between 15 and 20 years. Tennis courts can last a lifetime if they are recoated; most coatings last 12 to 15 years. The concrete shell of a swimming pool is expected to last more than 25 years, but the interior plaster and tile have life expectancies of about 10 to 25 years.
    SITE & LANDSCAPING
    YEARS
    American Red Clay
    100+
    Asphalt Driveway
    15-20
    Asphalt with Acrylic Coating or Cushion
    12-15
    Brick & Concrete Patios
    15-25
    Clay Paving
    100+
    Cleaning Equipment(Swimming Pool)
    7-10
    Coating
    5-7
    Concrete Shell (Swimming Pool)
    25+
    Concrete Walks
    40- 50
    Controllers
    15
    Decking(Swimming Pool)
    15
    Fast-Dry Green Tennis Court 100+
    Fast-Dry with Subsurface
    100+
    Gravel Walks
    4-6
    Interior Finish( Swimming Pool)
    10-35
    Polyvinyl Fences 100+
    Sprinklers 10-14
    Underground PVC Piping 60+
    Valves
    20
    Waterline Tile ( Swimming Pool)
    10
    Aluminum windows are expected to last between 15 and 20 years while wooden windows should last nearly 30 years.
    SKYLIGHTS & WINDOWS
    YEARS
    Aluminum/Aluminum Clad
    15-20
    Window Glazing 10+
    Vinyl Windows
    20 - 40
    Wood
    30+
    Note: Life expectancy varies with usage, weather, installation, maintenance and quality of materials. Items listed as lasting 100+ years, especially those that open and close, often fail prematurely due to misuse or overuse. This list should be used only as a general guideline, not as a guarantee or warranty regarding the performance or life expectancy of any product.
    Monday, 13 December 2010 19:45

    Inspecting for defects in older buildings

    by Nick Gromicko and Rob London
    While you can’t predict the lurking dangers in an unfamiliar home, its age offers clues about what you can expect to encounter. Older homes, especially those that have remained in the same hands for much (or all) of their lifetime, are often plagued by a common set of defects that InterNACHI inspectors and potential home buyers may want to learn about.
    Some of the more prevalent issues of older homes are as follows.
    • Lead is a toxic metal that was once commonly used in the manufacture of household paint and plumbing fixtures, and as an additive to gasoline. While it has long been prohibited in new construction, lead-based paint and plumbing that weren't removed may present a significant health hazard. Homes constructed prior to 1978 may contain lead paint, whichBlue asbestos insulation can be ingested by small children or contaminate surrounding soil and vegetable gardens. It is easily identifiable by its alligator-like flaking pattern. Lead pipes, too, were used in homes up until the late 1940s, and they may allow lead to leach into drinking water. They can be identified by their dull gray color and the ease by which they can be scratched by keys or coins.
    • Asbestos insulation, which can increase the chances of developing lung cancer and mesothelioma, was used in homes between 1930 and 1950. Asbestos insulation should be left undisturbed until it can be removed by a qualified professional, as its fibers can be inhaled when they are airborne, creating a significant health hazard.
    • Older homes were not constructed to meet modern energy efficiency requirements. They may suffer thermal losses from single-pane windows, insufficient or compressed insulation, leaking ductwork, and inefficient heaters and other appliances. It should be noted, however, that older homes better capitalize on natural sources of lighting, heating and ventilation through the use of design features such as exterior shutters, shade trees, and thick, heat-retaining masonry walls.
    • Buried oil tanks were often abandoned and forgotten after homes switched to newer fuel sources. Today, these tanks pose a safety hazard to homeowners and their neighbors, as their contents may leak into surrounding soil. Disposal guidelines vary and may call for removal of the tank or filling it with sand or gravel. Soil testing may be required to investigate whether an abandoned fuel tank has leaked underground.
    • Obsolete electrical components pose a fire and safety hazard, such as:
      • aluminum wiring. From about 1965 to 1973, single-strand aluminum wiring was sometimes used in place of copper branch-circuit wiring inWells present a fall hazard residential electrical systems due to the escalating price of copper. After a decade of use by homeowners and electricians, weaknesses were discovered in the metal, which led to its disuse as a branch wiring material. Although properly maintained aluminum wiring is acceptable, aluminum will generally become defective faster than copper due to certain qualities inherent in the metal. It can be identified by its color or the labels “CO/ALR,” “aluminum” and “AL”;
      • knob-and-tube (K&T) wiring.  This was an early standardized method of electrical wiring in buildings from about 1880 to the 1940s. While codes do not require its removal, K&T wiring often suffers from unsafe modifications, old age, overheating, and lack of a ground wire. It can be identified by its characteristic porcelain insulating tubes;
      • a lack of ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs). Homes built before the 1970s may not have been equipped with GFCI protection, which guards against overloads, short circuits and ground faults; and
      • a lack of grounded receptacles, which provide a safe path to ground for stray electrical current. Most major appliances, such as stoves, refrigerators and computers, have three-prong plugs and require three-slot or grounded receptacles. Homes in the U.S. built before 1962 were not constructed with three-slot receptacles.
    • Wells, cesspools and septic tanks were commonly used before homes and buildings were connected to public sewer and water systems. If they were abandoned and not removed, these elements pose hazards related to their deterioration and collapse.
    • Radon is a naturally occurring gas that has been identified as the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States. It usually enters the home through cracks in the foundation, a common problem found in vintage construction. Radon cannot be seen, smelled or tasted, so concerned homeowners should consult with their InterNACHI inspector about radon testing during their next scheduled inspection.
    In summary, older construction often suffers from predictable defects and obsolete components. Homeowners may want to enlist the help of their InterNACHI inspector to explore essential upgrades that will eliminate health and safety hazards in their homes.
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